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Out of the nine days of the trek we had eight consecutive days of windless, sunny conditions.

Luckily for him, the rain and wind on the last day saved him from having to eat his (wife’s) very cute, pink beanie as part of a wager that had him progressively more worried as one perfect day followed the previous one. In the CONAF (Chile’s National Forest Corporation that is the custodian of the park) HQ’s entrance hall, there is a display of artifacts, a 3-D terrain model and historical photographs of the park.

This year’s trek thus represents a dream realised – and we could not have had better weather.

“Unprecedented, unheard of” weather according to Kelson.

Given the limited sizes of the campsites and ablution facilities, we visited at the best possible time – at the end of the tourist season just before the refugios and lodges closed for the winter on 30 April – when visitor numbers are low.

I would hate to be there when there are hundreds of trekkers at any given site…

The route is still known as the “South African Route” (it did make me wonder why there is no campsite named after the South African team when all the others are named after other nations’ climbing teams … A recent video entitled “Free South Africa” (scroll to the bottom of this page to view) shows the first free ascent of the route.

While searching through the site’s archives for that article I was struck how Torres del Paine has grown in popularity, first amongst the trekking crowd and more recently, I suspect, for the mass tourism market.

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