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But now it smells complex and incredibly luxurious, especially in the parfum – all spicy, rosy florals and amber with a dry, animalic leather note cutting through.

I’ve come to think of Coco as the quintessential, night-at-the-opera floriental.

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The name is seemingly a reference to a Paul Verlaine poem: “” I love this name, because Heure Exquise’s combination of green notes, iris, hyacinth, and vanilla comes across as achingly poignant, romantic and yet innocent.

(And I just realized this was in my Winter top 10, too – clearly one of my favorites for the year.) Once a more classical chypre, I believe the current version of Odalisque has been stripped of some of its oakmoss.

In the near future, I suspect, the berry-and-peony fruity-florals and fruitchoulis that were ubiquitous in the late ‘90s and aughts will smell nostalgically old-fashioned to some, dated to others.

Hillary Clinton reportedly wears Angel, and I recently heard a young You Tube star describe as her most “mature” smelling perfume!

These terms, with various nuances, suggest fragrances that smell of another time.

Elisa explores some of her favorite perfume examples.

Maurice Roucel, on the other hand, I love for his excess.

In 24 Faubourg, they’ve fought each other’s worst tendencies, creating a perfectly refined but still lush white floral.

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