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Rising out of a lake and decorated with 100kg of pure gold, it is a stunning sight, enhanced by the legions of devotees worshipping on their knees or immersing themselves within the waters of the surrounding Sarovar (pool of nectar).

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The hotel includes a first-floor infinity pool, a selection of restaurants and spa treatments.

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However, there is an astonishing, sparkling jewel in the city's slightly grubby crown – the Golden Temple.

Attracting more visitors than the Taj Mahal, the Golden Temple is the holiest shrine in Sikhism.

We had travelled for a two-day whirlwind tour of Amritsar, in the Punjab, which sits on the north-west border with Pakistan.

Largely off the tourist trail, the city is a five-hour train journey from Delhi but is often overlooked by travellers in favour of Agra in the opposite direction, which boasts the Taj Mahal.Whereas the Taj Mahal in neighbouring Rajashthan is a shrine to the love of emperor Shah Jahan for his wife, the Golden Temple has a purpose.Sikhs queue for hours to get into the gold-plated temple itself, where devotees play music and chant throughout the day (which is broadcast around the entire complex through surprisingly high-end Bose speakers).among so many knees and hands, as virtually every inch of floor space was taken up by cross-legged figures reading prayer books.Qatar Airways ( launches scheduled flights to Amritsar, via Doha, on October 11. Direct Qatar Airways flights to Goa on India's west coast begin at the end of October.Rooms at the 248-room Ista Amritsar hotel - the city's only five-star hotel - start from £73 a night and can be booked at And so from the sublime of the temple, to the faintly ridiculous.

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